Patch-Making & Applique Technique on Embroidery Machine

Step-By-Step Guide

You can embroider our patch-type designs directly onto the garment, omitting the first thread, or create easy-to-attach standalone patches by following the instructions described below.

The beauty of patches is that you don’t need to hoop your projects precisely, and you can use the patches as standalone creations. For example, imagine how gorgeous a dinner table would look, decorated with standalone water lily leaves, with water lily patches just lying there on the table. Take a look at these photos:

Read through this short tutorial to learn how to create embroidered patches. Making machine-embroidered patches is easy! We’ve included photos and step-by-step explanations using actual examples to help you get started.


Required Materials & Tools:

  • Patch-type machine embroidery designs.
  • Water-soluble stabilizer.
  • Temporary adhesive spray for machine embroidery & appliqué.
  • Quality scissors with long, sharp edges ("appliqué" scissors are readily available in most sewing centers and craft shops)
  • Pay attention at photos below, to see how they look. The curve on handles is important, because it makes the scissors a lot more convenient for precise cutting.
  • Lightweight, non-fraying and easy to cut fabric, that will serve as basis for your patches. You may use many different types of fabric for this purpose. Organza may be a good choice, for example.

 

General Suggestions:

  • Print the thread and fabric change list for the specific design you’re going to stitch.
  • If you plan to use fabrics that may shrink, wash them using the same conditions you intend to use for laundering later. This will preshrink the fabric and help prevent puckering.
  • Iron all fabrics before you begin your project.
  • Avoid using very slippery fabrics, at least in the beginning. Later on, you’ll become more comfortable working with them.
  • Avoid fabrics that easily fray. If you have no choice, apply 'No Fray Spray' to prevent fraying.


Main Steps (Patch-making Technique Summary):

  • Hooping water soluble backing (alone).
  • Marking the future patch contours, using embroidery machine and very first thread of patch type design.
  • Applying temporary spray adhesive on hooped soluble backing, inside the embroidered outline.
  • Positioning a piece of base fabric over the hooped WSB (water soluble backing), sewing it on (second design thread) and cutting the excess edges.
  • Embroidering the rest of design, following thread change list.


Detailed Directions:

Hoop the water-soluble backing (alone) and slide the hoop into the embroidery machine. The backing should not pucker. If it does, rehoop it until you achieve the desired result.

Large hoops sometimes don’t hold fabric or stabilizer securely enough. If your hoop tends to do this, insert a piece of thick fabric between the four opposite sides of the hoop when hooping your stabilizer.

Alternatively, consider purchasing a new hoop. Many machine manufacturers have recently addressed this issue and offer hoops with special metal pins that help hold the fabric and stabilizer in place. Ask your dealer about these hoops—you’ll be glad you did.


Simply load the patch-type design and embroider the first thread. You can use any color, as it will be hidden later. This outline is embroidered to mark the exact location where the adhesive spray should be applied and where the patch's base fabric will be positioned.

The finished result of this step should look something like this:


Apply temporary spray adhesive to the soluble backing, inside the embroidered outline.

Be careful and read the directions on the spray before applying. Stabilize-It temporary adhesive spray and water-soluble backing work great together, and the spray allows you to apply it to very small, precise areas. However, if you’re using a different product or brand, be sure to test it on a small piece of soluble backing first to avoid any unpleasant surprises. Here’s a photo showing the process of applying the temporary spray adhesive to our patch project:


Position a piece of lightweight base fabric over the hooped WSB.

Simply place the fabric over the outlined area. The temporary spray adhesive you just applied will hold the fabric in place and prevent puckering later on. Allow the adhesive to dry for 2-3 minutes.


Sew the fabric to the water-soluble backing by embroidering the second thread of the patch design. The result should look like this:


Remove the hoop from the machine.

Do NOT un-hoop the stabilizer. Using very sharp appliqué scissors, cut away the excess fabric edges. Trim as closely to the seam edge as possible. See photo:


Slide the hoop back into the machine and continue embroidering the rest of the design, following the thread change list.


When you’ve embroidered everything except the outlines, remove the hoop again and carefully cut any loose threads and thread tails, if present.


Then, complete the design.


When the design is complete, cut away the large pieces of water-soluble backing and wash away the rest.

Some water-soluble stabilizers may require soaking. Be sure to wash the backing off thoroughly. Here is a photo of the final result: